Germany (Hamburg and Berlin)
My first foray into Germany, the 15th country whose borders I have entered, began following our Korfball match in Arnhem. Walking through dense fog that had descended on Arnhem that evening all that could be seen were backlit shadowy outlines of the buildings and people that passed me by. Arnhem Central still appeared to be under construction or having significant renovations at the time. The small amount of seating for those waiting in the main building area was open to the chilled air flowing in from outside that evening, making it a rather unpleasant place to spend the 90 minutes I had waiting before boarding my train.
While not the cheapest way to travel, the Dutch train system in certainly top quality and has free wifi on a number of trains. I spent most of the journey to Enschede on the Dutch-German border catching up emails and messages from friends and family back in New Zealand. At Enschede, it was time to transfer to an equally comfortable Deutsche Bahn (DB) train, unfortunately no wifi, to Münster. The irony was that messages in the train were broadcast in both German and Dutch so now I was relying on my limited understanding of the Dutch language to get by. Fortunately there are a number of similarities in the languages that made life a little easier throughout the whole trip in Germany. Since the advent of the EU, much travel in Europe is essentially borderless. The only way I knew I had entered Germany was by checking Google Maps on my phone! The passport stayed tucked away in my bag the entire trip!
To travel via Hamburg, meet Lingy and spend some time exploring the second biggest port in Europe, meant a three and a half hour middle-of-the-night stop over at Münster. Münster HBF is about every bit exciting as Arnhem Central. A large vast station with little seating and a handful of shops, all closed of course on what was very early Sunday morning, apart from the Turkish kebab shop serving Saturday night drinkers needing some more solid sustenance. Waiting out those three and half hours that turned into almost four and a half as the train was late, was an opportunity to do some reading and watch some of the Saturday night punters rolling in off the streets to catch their trains home. The only seating in the entire station was an enclosed waiting area on the platform. Supposedly heated, essential in this late autumn night air, it was about as cold as standing on the platform as the heating was not working. It did not take long for me to leave this area either, getting smoked out by some of the many European smokers. After coming from New Zealand where smoking has become more invisible since being banned from workplaces ten years ago, it has taken some adjustment to handle the frequent smell of cigarette smoke in Europe. I spent the rest of the time at Münster HBF waiting on the platform in the icy air.
Once on the train to Hamburg, the much needed warmth and weary eyes allowed me to return to my ‘sleeping in anything moving’ ways, only awaking when the train slowed on its arrival into Hamburg.
Arriving an hour late and at a different platform than expected, I trusted that Lingy had been able to figure out what was going on. After disembarking and not seeing him on our platform I wandered over to the next platform where our train was meant to arrive. Spotting Lingy back at our new arrival platform proved that he had figured out our new arrival plans and as it turned out, snuck in a extra 45 minutes sleep as well.
While not the cheapest way to travel, the Dutch train system in certainly top quality and has free wifi on a number of trains. I spent most of the journey to Enschede on the Dutch-German border catching up emails and messages from friends and family back in New Zealand. At Enschede, it was time to transfer to an equally comfortable Deutsche Bahn (DB) train, unfortunately no wifi, to Münster. The irony was that messages in the train were broadcast in both German and Dutch so now I was relying on my limited understanding of the Dutch language to get by. Fortunately there are a number of similarities in the languages that made life a little easier throughout the whole trip in Germany. Since the advent of the EU, much travel in Europe is essentially borderless. The only way I knew I had entered Germany was by checking Google Maps on my phone! The passport stayed tucked away in my bag the entire trip!
To travel via Hamburg, meet Lingy and spend some time exploring the second biggest port in Europe, meant a three and a half hour middle-of-the-night stop over at Münster. Münster HBF is about every bit exciting as Arnhem Central. A large vast station with little seating and a handful of shops, all closed of course on what was very early Sunday morning, apart from the Turkish kebab shop serving Saturday night drinkers needing some more solid sustenance. Waiting out those three and half hours that turned into almost four and a half as the train was late, was an opportunity to do some reading and watch some of the Saturday night punters rolling in off the streets to catch their trains home. The only seating in the entire station was an enclosed waiting area on the platform. Supposedly heated, essential in this late autumn night air, it was about as cold as standing on the platform as the heating was not working. It did not take long for me to leave this area either, getting smoked out by some of the many European smokers. After coming from New Zealand where smoking has become more invisible since being banned from workplaces ten years ago, it has taken some adjustment to handle the frequent smell of cigarette smoke in Europe. I spent the rest of the time at Münster HBF waiting on the platform in the icy air.
Once on the train to Hamburg, the much needed warmth and weary eyes allowed me to return to my ‘sleeping in anything moving’ ways, only awaking when the train slowed on its arrival into Hamburg.
Arriving an hour late and at a different platform than expected, I trusted that Lingy had been able to figure out what was going on. After disembarking and not seeing him on our platform I wandered over to the next platform where our train was meant to arrive. Spotting Lingy back at our new arrival platform proved that he had figured out our new arrival plans and as it turned out, snuck in a extra 45 minutes sleep as well.
Hamburg
Hamburg is another German city with a history of destruction. A quarter of the city was also destroyed during a huge fire in 1842 and over half the city was turned to rubble during World War II. Despite this history, Hamburg is now one of the most prosperous cities in Europe and surprisingly Hamburg’s bridges outnumber Amsterdam, London and Venice combined!
Arriving early on a foggy autumnal Sunday morning in Hamburg left only one choice of location to begin a brief exploration of this city. Exiting from the U-Bahn at the port, all that was needed to find our first destination was to follow the tide of tourists and locals alike drifting towards Hamburg’s oldest market, established in 1703. The Fischmarkt (Fish Market), held every Sunday morning from 4.30am-9.30am, brought back memories of ploughing through market crowds in Asia. Using well-mastered crowd weaving skills we passed the usual variety of cheap tourist junk, finally encountering stalls offering fresh produce, chocolate (Dutch I might add!), plants, meats, prepared foods and of course endless varieties of both fresh and cooked fish. Lingy tells me a typical German breakfast consists of some sort of sandwich or filled roll. No toast, cereal or bacon and eggs here, just an abundance of coffee and pommes (fries served with mayo or tomato sauce) on offer at the market. Keeping with the tourist motto ‘When in …………’, we hungrily inhaled a fish roll for breakfast, topped with the required German sauce.
While at the market another must is to relax away from the crowds outside, listening to the live music inside the Fish Auction Hall. The interior of this brick building had a steely industrial feel about it while still maintaining an ornate ambience. Instead of the floor being covered with fish and entrails, tables and chairs allowed those with weary feet to relax with some food or a beer from one of the many vendors inside.
When at the port, what better way to explore the economic backbone of the city than from the water? You can take a typically touristy organised tour or if searching for a budget option that gives you another glimpse into local life, catch one of the taxi ferries that ply port. Our journey started at the fish market, opposite the longest pier in the world at over 300m. It wasn’t until spotting a large ship sitting in a floating dry dock at the pier that the sheer size could be appreciated. Through the fog, eerie outlines of the cranes, buildings and endless stacks of containers could be distinguished. The ferry chugged from stop to stop on its route, locals hopping on and off, reminding these tourists how much water and the port plays a role in everyday life for the residents of Hamburg. As the ferry traveled north, golden sands, overlooked by what we assume are rather expensive houses, were being lapped by water which was no doubt barely above freezing level at the time. From the ghostly fog engulfing the port, enormous container ships emerged around us draped in an eerie hue.
After disembarking the ferry at the fish market our walking tour of Hamburg continued by exploring the Sankt Pauli district, Hamburg’s entertainment central. Wandering past some well-known bars that have hosted world famous bands, the eighties and nineties grunge feel of the district was easily absorbed. Then came Hamburg’s biggest tourist attraction, the Reeperbahn. Harking back to ancient times when prostitution was big business anywhere sailors where present, this 600m long street is one of the world’s most well known red-light districts. Being a Sunday morning the street, like the rest of Sankt Pauli, only had a handful of souls wandering through it. There were still a couple of clubs with music thudding away, bouncers stationed outside, catering for those revelers partying well beyond sunrise. One could only begin appreciate how the pulse of this area must have been beating only a few hours ago on Saturday night, maybe similar to Thailand’s Patong Beach, minus the ladyboys! Nearby is Herbetstraße. Reminiscent of Amsterdam’s red-light district, there are windows usually displaying prostitutes, which were standing empty on Sunday morning. Lingy also tells me that nearby is an ATM machine that has to get restocked with surprising regularity during Friday and Saturday nights due to its proximity to the red-light district.
Arriving early on a foggy autumnal Sunday morning in Hamburg left only one choice of location to begin a brief exploration of this city. Exiting from the U-Bahn at the port, all that was needed to find our first destination was to follow the tide of tourists and locals alike drifting towards Hamburg’s oldest market, established in 1703. The Fischmarkt (Fish Market), held every Sunday morning from 4.30am-9.30am, brought back memories of ploughing through market crowds in Asia. Using well-mastered crowd weaving skills we passed the usual variety of cheap tourist junk, finally encountering stalls offering fresh produce, chocolate (Dutch I might add!), plants, meats, prepared foods and of course endless varieties of both fresh and cooked fish. Lingy tells me a typical German breakfast consists of some sort of sandwich or filled roll. No toast, cereal or bacon and eggs here, just an abundance of coffee and pommes (fries served with mayo or tomato sauce) on offer at the market. Keeping with the tourist motto ‘When in …………’, we hungrily inhaled a fish roll for breakfast, topped with the required German sauce.
While at the market another must is to relax away from the crowds outside, listening to the live music inside the Fish Auction Hall. The interior of this brick building had a steely industrial feel about it while still maintaining an ornate ambience. Instead of the floor being covered with fish and entrails, tables and chairs allowed those with weary feet to relax with some food or a beer from one of the many vendors inside.
When at the port, what better way to explore the economic backbone of the city than from the water? You can take a typically touristy organised tour or if searching for a budget option that gives you another glimpse into local life, catch one of the taxi ferries that ply port. Our journey started at the fish market, opposite the longest pier in the world at over 300m. It wasn’t until spotting a large ship sitting in a floating dry dock at the pier that the sheer size could be appreciated. Through the fog, eerie outlines of the cranes, buildings and endless stacks of containers could be distinguished. The ferry chugged from stop to stop on its route, locals hopping on and off, reminding these tourists how much water and the port plays a role in everyday life for the residents of Hamburg. As the ferry traveled north, golden sands, overlooked by what we assume are rather expensive houses, were being lapped by water which was no doubt barely above freezing level at the time. From the ghostly fog engulfing the port, enormous container ships emerged around us draped in an eerie hue.
After disembarking the ferry at the fish market our walking tour of Hamburg continued by exploring the Sankt Pauli district, Hamburg’s entertainment central. Wandering past some well-known bars that have hosted world famous bands, the eighties and nineties grunge feel of the district was easily absorbed. Then came Hamburg’s biggest tourist attraction, the Reeperbahn. Harking back to ancient times when prostitution was big business anywhere sailors where present, this 600m long street is one of the world’s most well known red-light districts. Being a Sunday morning the street, like the rest of Sankt Pauli, only had a handful of souls wandering through it. There were still a couple of clubs with music thudding away, bouncers stationed outside, catering for those revelers partying well beyond sunrise. One could only begin appreciate how the pulse of this area must have been beating only a few hours ago on Saturday night, maybe similar to Thailand’s Patong Beach, minus the ladyboys! Nearby is Herbetstraße. Reminiscent of Amsterdam’s red-light district, there are windows usually displaying prostitutes, which were standing empty on Sunday morning. Lingy also tells me that nearby is an ATM machine that has to get restocked with surprising regularity during Friday and Saturday nights due to its proximity to the red-light district.
As we make our way back towards the centre of the city, guiding ourselves towards the spire of St Nikolai Church, Lingy recounts the story of the great Hamburg fire of 1842. The fire started in a cigar shop in the Altstadt as an act of arson. One local had an issue with the shop owner and his actions led a fire that raged for five days with flames reportedly five times higher than the St Nikolai Church spire! The arsonist was never caught and it took Hamburg more than 40 years to rebuild from this devastation.
During World War II the St Nikolai Church, like much of Hamburg, was destroyed with the exception of a few pieces of battered external wall and the church spire. The spire itself has been permanently supported with external scaffolding since WWII. The church is now an open-air anti-war memorial. On occasions the bells, which can be seen while standing in what used to be the centre of the church, still ring from the tower. It is also possible to take a lift up the tower for views over Hamburg. Unfortunately not worthwhile on a day when the fog had reduced the visibility to hazy outlines.
Walking from the church we crossed the Trostbrücke (Comfort Bridge). Built in 1881, it joins old and new Hamburg. Two figures adorn the bridge. Count Adolf III and Bishop Ansgar were the founders of Hamburg’s original catherdral. The bridge is also famous as people who were being tried and executed were walked over the bridge as a final comfort.
Managing to avoid our own executions, we continued on to the Rathaus, Hamburg’s city hall. Containing 647 rooms, including some apparently recently discovered hidden rooms, it is certainly an impressive sight overlooking the Rathausmarkt. This town square, like many in Europe during November, was being filled with stalls for the famous Christmas Markets. Lingy also shares that the day before he was passing here and witnessed a strange ritual. A man was dressed in a costume trying to keep numerous bottle caps grouped together using only a toothbrush while others messed them up. Apparently this means the man in costume was over 30 and single. This hilarious tradition is a way of showing this to passers by and attempt to attract a potential mate. Despite all of our ‘higher intelligence’ as humans, wonderful traditions like this remind us how animalistic and primal our basic desires can be.
Returning to Hamburg HBF via the main shopping street of Mönckebergstraße, similar to London’s Oxford Street, Hamburg’s whirlwind tour was over. It was time to catch some more shuteye of the train to Berlin!
During World War II the St Nikolai Church, like much of Hamburg, was destroyed with the exception of a few pieces of battered external wall and the church spire. The spire itself has been permanently supported with external scaffolding since WWII. The church is now an open-air anti-war memorial. On occasions the bells, which can be seen while standing in what used to be the centre of the church, still ring from the tower. It is also possible to take a lift up the tower for views over Hamburg. Unfortunately not worthwhile on a day when the fog had reduced the visibility to hazy outlines.
Walking from the church we crossed the Trostbrücke (Comfort Bridge). Built in 1881, it joins old and new Hamburg. Two figures adorn the bridge. Count Adolf III and Bishop Ansgar were the founders of Hamburg’s original catherdral. The bridge is also famous as people who were being tried and executed were walked over the bridge as a final comfort.
Managing to avoid our own executions, we continued on to the Rathaus, Hamburg’s city hall. Containing 647 rooms, including some apparently recently discovered hidden rooms, it is certainly an impressive sight overlooking the Rathausmarkt. This town square, like many in Europe during November, was being filled with stalls for the famous Christmas Markets. Lingy also shares that the day before he was passing here and witnessed a strange ritual. A man was dressed in a costume trying to keep numerous bottle caps grouped together using only a toothbrush while others messed them up. Apparently this means the man in costume was over 30 and single. This hilarious tradition is a way of showing this to passers by and attempt to attract a potential mate. Despite all of our ‘higher intelligence’ as humans, wonderful traditions like this remind us how animalistic and primal our basic desires can be.
Returning to Hamburg HBF via the main shopping street of Mönckebergstraße, similar to London’s Oxford Street, Hamburg’s whirlwind tour was over. It was time to catch some more shuteye of the train to Berlin!